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		<title>SIG on Warm IR Patio Heater Parts</title>
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		<description>Recent content in SIG on Warm IR Patio Heater Parts</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 08:54:29 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 6</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-6/</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 08:54:29 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-6/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/images/a2e78814622cf5c7acf35e47e0d9a116.jpg&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 6&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-your-heat-curve-right-when-swapping-ir-lamps&#34;&gt;Getting Your Heat Curve Right When Swapping IR Lamps&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the problem with swapping out OEM lamps in a Sidel Matrix or SIG Blomax 6: the temperature curve is finicky. If the wattage or the spectral output is even slightly off, you&amp;rsquo;re in trouble. Your PET preforms will either come out under-heated or, worse, scorched.&#xA;That&amp;rsquo;s exactly why we built our replacement lamps to mirror the original specs. No guessing. No &amp;ldquo;close enough.&amp;rdquo;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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				<title>Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-4/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2026 07:26:51 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-4/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/images/6b2a10b22a2a37d92570fedcc25ea746.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-your-heat-profiles-right-for-sig-blomax-4-and-krones-contiform&#34;&gt;Getting Your Heat Profiles Right for SIG Blomax 4 and &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;Krones&lt;/a&gt; Contiform&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a PET blowing machine is always a tug-of-war. You want the &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;fastest&lt;/a&gt; cycle speed possible, but you don&amp;rsquo;t want your energy bill to skyrocket. It&amp;rsquo;s a tricky balance.&#xA;And let&amp;rsquo;s be honest—when OEM lamp prices jump, it hurts. That&amp;rsquo;s why you need a replacement that just &lt;em&gt;works&lt;/em&gt;. You need the same wattage and the same light spectrum so your preforms hit the right temperature every single time. No guesswork.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The nitty-gritty on power&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These lamps are short-wave infrared emitters. We build them to handle high voltage because you need that heat to ramp up fast.&#xA;The goal is to punch through the PET wall quickly. If the wattage is too low or the voltage dips, you&amp;rsquo;re going to run into trouble. You&amp;rsquo;ll see &amp;ldquo;cold spots&amp;rdquo; in the &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;preform&lt;/a&gt;, and suddenly your bottles have weird wall thickness. Nobody wants that.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Built to last (and fit)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We use heavy-wall quartz glass for a reason. When things get scorching hot, cheap glass bows. Ours doesn&amp;rsquo;t.&#xA;Inside, we use a halogen cycle to stop the tungsten filament from evaporating too fast. It simply makes the lamp last longer.&#xA;As for the fit? We use R7s or Sk15 &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;connectors&lt;/a&gt; with really tight tolerances. There is nothing worse than fighting a socket during a quick swap. Plus, a loose fit leads to arcing, which fries your contact points. We made sure they slide right in.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Real-world talk&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These are meant for the grind—24/7 production where the machines never stop. You get the same performance as the OEM parts, but your cost per bottle actually goes down.&#xA;Just a heads-up: if you&amp;rsquo;re running these at max power, your oven&amp;rsquo;s cooling fans are going to work overtime. Make sure your ventilation is clear. If the heat just sits there, it&amp;rsquo;ll eat the life of the lamp.&#xA;Keep your power supply stable, keep the air moving, and these things will take a beating for you.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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				<title>Replacement lamp for SIG blow molding</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blow-molding/</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2026 17:01:55 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blow-molding/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-patio-parts.com/images/1b9c2637d312f5383b58ed80f7a6411b.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for SIG blow molding&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;introduction&#34;&gt;Introduction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We built this replacement lamp to fix one thing: giving every SIG Sidel blow molding machine a true drop-in heat source.&#xA;Whether you&amp;rsquo;re running a classic SBO or the newest Matrix, this lamp fits the original footprint and electrical setup. No rewiring. No bracket fabrication. No downtime. Just swap the old lamp, wire in the new one, and get the line running again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;power-voltage-and-size-the-details-that-matter&#34;&gt;Power, Voltage, and Size: The Details That Matter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preform heating needs the right kind of heat—precise, &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;steady&lt;/a&gt;, and exactly where you want it. So we built this lamp around a fixed power profile and a 300mm quartz tube. That length matches the standard heating zone on Sidel machines, so the heat covers the preform from shoulder to neck without overheating the neck insert.&#xA;Why 400V? High voltage means lower current for the same power. That keeps the wiring harness small and cuts resistive losses. In practice, that means less voltage drop at the terminals and temperature that stays consistent, run after run.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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